名酒傳——侯伯王酒庄白葡萄酒1989

Wine Legend: Château Haut-Brion, Blanc 1989

Bottles produced 8,400

Composition 54% Sémillon, 46% Sauvignon Blanc

Yield 23 hl/ha

Alcohol 13.2%

Release price N/A

Price today $2,595 at Cellaraiders (US)

名酒傳——侯伯王酒庄白葡萄酒1989

瓶裝量：8,400

成分：54％賽美蓉，46％長相思

產量：23 00升 /公頃

酒精度：13.2％

發行價：未知

現價：$ 2,595

A legend because…

Haut-Brion has long produced the most prestigious white Graves, although it faces strong competition from its neighbour La Mission Haut-Brion, which produced its own white wine under the label Laville Haut-Brion until 2009, when it was renamed La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc (both properties are under the same ownership).

Produced in very small quantities since its first vintage in 1916, Haut-Brion Blanc has always been a wine of considerable power and longevity; its scarcity, and the fact that it is a white wine produced by the sole first growth in the Graves, make it much sought after by collectors.

緣起……

侯伯王長期以來一直生產最負盛名的白格拉夫葡萄酒，雖然面臨著來自近鄰美訊酒庄的激烈競爭，後者用拉維爾侯伯王品牌生產自己的白葡萄酒，直到2009年，后更名為美訊酒庄干白（兩家酒庄都屬於同一主人）。

侯伯王干白自1916年推出第一款葡萄酒以來，產量非常少，一直是一款具有相當強壯和長壽的葡萄酒。 其稀缺性，以及由格拉夫產區單一年份首批收穫製成的白葡萄酒的事實，使得它成為收藏家追捧的焦點。

Looking back

The Haut-Brion wines benefited from a surge of research by estate manager Jean-Bernard Delmas in the 1970s. He oversaw an intense study of the different clones and rootstocks present in the vineyards and, as a consequence, only the best were replanted (in 1977, two-thirds of the white vines were replanted). Delmas presided over production, and after his retirement in 2003 he was succeeded by his son, Jean-Philippe.

回顧

侯伯王葡萄酒受益於酒庄經理Jean-Bernard Delmas在20世紀70年代起主導的科研攻關。 他推動了對葡萄園中不同克隆和砧木嫁接的深入研究，結果是，只有最好的葡萄品種才被重新種植（1977年，三分之二的白葡萄藤被重新種植）。 Delmas主持生產，2003年退休后，由他的兒子Jean-Philippe繼任。

The vintage

Bordeaux has become accustomed to precocious vintages, but in 1989 it was highly unusual to be picking grapes in August. After the hottest summer since 1947, with 22 days above 30°C, the harvest was the earliest since 1893. Picking began in the Graves on 21 August, although Haut-Brion waited until 29 August. The challenge was to retain a degree of acidity in the fruit and thus avoid flabbiness.

年份

波爾多已經習慣了早熟的年份，但是在1989年，八月採摘葡萄還是非常不尋常。 經歷了1947年以來最炎熱的夏天，有22天30°C以上日子，收穫是1893年以來最早的。格拉夫產區在8月21日開始採摘，侯伯王酒庄等到8月29日開始。 面臨的挑戰是保持水果酸度，避免散失。

The terroir

Of the 52 hectares planted at the estate, only 2.9ha are white: 53% Sémillon, 47% Sauvignon Blanc. (Today there are also a few rows of Sauvignon Gris, but they were not planted in 1989.) They are planted on a 27m hillock across the road from the château.

The soil is very deep gravel over a clay subsoil. There is less clay than at La Mission, and the varietal mix is also different, as there is considerably more Sauvignon Blanc at Haut-Brion. The whole estate lies within the city boundaries of Bordeaux, and thus benefits from a warmer microclimate. Yields vary from 25–40hl/ha.

風土

酒庄52公頃的領地上，只有2.9公頃的白葡萄：53％的賽美蓉，47％的長相思。 （今天也有幾排灰蘇維翁，但在1989年他們還沒有種植。）他們種植在與酒庄隔一條馬路的一個27米高的小山丘上。

土壤是粘土底土上非常深厚的礫石。比美訊酒庄的粘土少，品種組合也不同，因此侯伯王種植了更多的長相思。 整個莊園位於波爾多的城市邊界，從而受益於溫暖的小氣候。 產量從2500升-4000升/公頃不等。

The wine

The harvest is manual and takes place at maximum maturity, so the wine』s alcohol varies from 13% to 14%. Sorting takes place in the vineyard and the grapes are whole-bunch pressed pneumatically; there is no skin contact. Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts in barrels, but the malolactic fermentation is blocked.

The wine is racked every three or four months, and the ageing period ranges from 10 to 12 months, with little stirring of the lees. In the 1980s it was common for the wine to be aged entirely in new oak, but today that proportion is around 50%. Production ranges from 5,500 to 8,500 bottles.

葡萄酒

葡萄在最大限度的成熟度，手工採摘，葡萄酒的酒精含量從13％到14％。 葡萄在葡萄園分揀，氣動整串壓榨，沒有浸皮。 以本土酵母桶發酵，但蘋果乳酸發酵被阻止。

葡萄酒每3或4個月就會倒罐一次，陳釀時間為10到12個月，很少攪動酒泥。 在二十世紀八十年代，這種葡萄酒完全是在新橡木桶里陳釀，但現在這個比例在50％左右。 瓶裝量從5,500到8,500瓶不等。

The reaction

In 2000, UK critic Tom Cannavan was enthusiastic: 『Developed wax and wet-wool character on the nose, very buttery with a gorgeous weight of fruit and little floral notes among peach, vanilla and nuts. Fantastic ripeness of fruit gives a sweet impression on the palate with lots of orange and lush apricot… long, very focused and pure finish.』

More recently, US critic Jeff Leve reported on a vertical tasting in 2010, noting that the 1989 『opens with aromas of fresh picked flowers, honey, caramel, grass, lemon, lime and orange. With textures of rich, polished fruit, the wine ends with a melange of citrus flavours』.

反應

2000年，英國評論家湯姆·卡納萬（Tom Cannavan）對該款酒表達了充分的熱情：「濃郁的石蠟和濕羊毛氣息，奶油味和可觀的果味酒體，伴隨一些桃，香草和堅果的香氣。 完美的成熟度賦予葡萄酒飽含橙子和杏子的甜美，令人印象深刻。回味悠長，韻味純正。

最近，美國評論家傑夫·利夫（Jeff Leve）在2010年進行了一次垂直品嘗，他指出，1989年份酒一開瓶，就伴隨著採摘的鮮花，蜂蜜，焦糖，青草，檸檬，酸橙和橘子的香氣。 質地豐富，果味圓潤，混合的柑橘類的回味「。

譯自——